If you have not heard of the Exumas before, you are not alone. I only recently discovered this beautiful chain of islands about an hour plane ride south of Miami, Florida. The Exumas is a group of 365 islands in the Bahamas surrounded by crystal clear blue water. Once in Nassau, it is a 35-mile journey by plane or boat to the first Exuma island.
It is hard to put into words the sheer beauty of the Exumas. The water is so clear you might think you were in a swimming pool surrounded by unspoiled white sand beaches. What makes the Exumas special, apart from nature’s beauty, is how few people you will see on your journey. While there are some hotels and islands to rent (if you are a big spender), the best way to see the Exumas is by boat.
Chartering a Boat in the Exumas
We chose to rent a catamaran through a charter company – NavTours. You can pick from a wide range of boats based on your budget and the number of people in your party. We also opted to hire a captain and a chef. Given the changing tides, the low depth of the ocean floor and some challenging weather, we were happy we had Captain Patrick to guide us. Our chef, Vikki, was terrific in her own right. She makes the best rum cake I have ever tasted! Together, they made an incredible team and gave us a trip of a lifetime.
Selecting your Boat in the Exumas
Selecting your boat can be tricky, and you should do some research to make sure you are getting the boat you want. The first decision is a powerboat or sailboat. I like a sailboat because it is quiet and cuts through the ocean peacefully, but a powerboat is great because you get where you want to go fast! This was our boat.
Benefits of a Sailboat in the Exumas
If you select a sailboat, your next decision is a catamaran or a monohull. The catamaran is great for sailing in places like the Bahamas because it is spacious and gives you room to move around. Plus, you can sit on the netting at the bow and watch the ocean pass underneath as you glide to your next destination.
There were four people in our party, and we set sail on a 38” foot catamaran. While the boat is plenty spacious, ideally with a group of 4, plus a captain and chef, a 42” catamaran or larger would be ideal. With a boat that size, there may be several staterooms with full bathrooms, including regular toilets (flushing toilet instead of a pump toilet) and separate showers instead of those in the same space as your toilet.
Picking your Itinerary
There are several routes you can take when sailing the Exumas. Our plan included five five-night roundtrip from Nassau where we stayed at Baha Mar. If I make this trip again (which is likely), I would book a 7-day one-way sail leaving from the Exumas instead of Nassau. If you start in Nassau, you have a 4-5 hour crossing each way, which can be hairy depending on the weather. If you start from one of the islands, such as Norman’s Cay, your sails are much shorter (1-3 hours), giving you more time to enjoy the beaches, snorkel, and swim with the pigs.
Day 1: Sailing to and Exploring Allan’s Cay
We left Nassau around 10 a.m. and crossed the Yellow Bank. The sun was shining, and the seas were calm, allowing us to sit back and relax. We arrived in Allan’s Cay around 2:00 p.m. We were so excited that we immediately jumped overboard. I was a bit shocked that the ocean was not bathtub temperature. I assumed the water was warm year-round – not so. While it is not as cold as the Pacific, I now know that December is not the warmest month to visit the Bahamas.
The Iguanas of Allan’s Cay
We swam a short distance to Allan’s Cay, where hungry iguanas greeted us. Tourists must feed these little guys frequently because when they saw us, they came running over. Without any food to feed them, they eventually lost interest in us.
Snorkeling Near Allan’s Cay
A short dingy ride away is an excellent spot for snorkeling and lobster diving. We geared up, and some of us (not me) grabbed a Hawaiian sling and swam off to catch dinner. We were amazed by the brilliant colors of the coral and the wildlife that was teaming below. After enjoying the sights of what lies beneath and getting a bit cold at this point, it was time to head back to the boat for happy hour and a warm shower. Once onboard, it was time to relax, enjoy the fresh ocean air, and watch the beautiful sunset.
Day 2: Sailing to Highbourne Cay in the Exumas
We headed south to Highbourne Cay for another beautiful day on the water. We tried our luck at fishing, swam in the bluest water, and snorkeled a bit. All in all, this was a very relaxing day. We ate dinner on Highbourne Cay at Xumas’s Restaurant and Bar. The food was good, but not nearly as good as the food chef Vikki made us daily. If you go to Highbourne Cay, check out the nurse sharks waiting for dinner at the entrance to the marina.
Day 3: Sailing and Exploring Hawksbill Cay
Exploring Hawksbill Cay was my favorite day in the Exumas.
Sandbars near Hawksbill Cay
We visited one of the most beautiful and unique beaches I have ever seen. After Captain Patrick skillfully navigated us through extremely shallow tides, first in the sailboat and then by dingy, we made it to “Vicky’s Beach.” Vicky’s Beach is somewhere near Hawksbill Cay, but the exact location is a well-kept secret. One that I couldn’t share with you, even if I wanted since I don’t know the waters well enough. Vicky’s Beach is a sand bar in the middle of the ocean.
The beach is different every day, and the scale depends on the rising and falling tides. Once on the sandbar, we walked along the water’s edge, marveling at the reach of the sandbars and the mini salt lakes that naturally formed between the sandbars as the tide went out. Some of the sandbars were so large you could float from one end to the other, while others were deep enough to practice your diving skills.
The best part of this experience was that we had the whole area to ourselves — not another soul in sight. After enjoying the sandbar, a champagne toast, and a swim, sadly, it was time to leave Vicky’s Beach. The beach would stay secret for another day as the tide rolled in, covering the sandbars and masking the true splendor just below the ocean’s surface.
Pro Tip: Pack a bottle of champagne or a few beers and sit and relax on the beach!
Exploring Mangrove Sea Park
If experiencing Vicky’s Beach was not enough for one day, we were off to our next excursion at the Mangrove Sea Park. We grabbed our kayak and stand-up paddleboards and paddled into the Sea Park, where we saw turtles and fish swimming all around us. Admittedly, we took a wrong turn and ended up fighting off the mangroves.
If you stay on the main path, it’s a pretty and smooth journey. At the end is, get this, another beautiful beach just for us without anybody else around.
Pro Tip: Pack a few beers to drink while you hang out in the mangroves and take in the scenery.
Day 4: Sailing to and Exploring Norman’s Cay
We started headed back north towards Nassau. On our way back, we stopped in Norman’s Cay.
Snorekling in Norman’s Cay
Have you heard of the sunken drug plane just off Norman’s Cay? Back in the day, a drug cartel was running drugs through the Bahamas and packed the plane with so many drugs that the plane could not handle the weight. The plane took off, banked off the runway, and crashed into about 6 feet of water right off the beach. Since everyone lived, we can joke about the stupidity of the plan. The plane remains underwater with the top sheared off and the windows missing. It’s a fun snorkeling spot because you can swim through the plane and hold the yolk (steering wheel).
Pro Tip: Bring some breadcrumbs. If you hold the bag of breadcrumbs open and twirl around, the bread moves around you, and soon fish surround you too. It’s fun!
Snorkeling with Reef Sharks at Norman’s Cay
Our last activity was snorkeling on the reef with reef sharks and trying our luck at lobster diving one last time. While I did not go lobster diving this time (the water was too cold, or at least that was my excuse), I stayed on the boat. Our Captain emerged from the water with a massive lobster on his spear. We ate like kings and queens that night.
Day 5: Sailing Back to Nassau
This was our last day. We knew a storm was coming, but it was more intense than I had expected. Instead of meandering back to Nassau, we quickly took everything below deck and headed out. We put our rain gear on and went topside to see and feel the waves crash over the bow of the boat. It’s funny, our group (minus me) loved the trip back. There were so many wet smiles on our sailboat. Our crossing back took 5 hours, and with 35-knot winds, I was relieved to have an experienced Captain to guide us safely back to the marina.
Pro Tip: Pack a light rain jacket for unexpected light showers or full-blown storms.
On our last night, we stayed in the marina. The following morning we continued our adventure and headed by car to Nassau for a few days. For more information about where to stay in Nassau, click on the post, Staying in Nassau at Baha Mar.
