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COMO Uma Punakha, Bhutan: A Tranquil Boutique Retreat (Review)

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Set against the backdrop of the pristine Punakha Valley, COMO Uma Punakha is a serene escape that captures the essence of Bhutan. Tucked into a terraced hillside overlooking the winding Mo Chu River and the vibrant green rice fields below, this intimate five-star lodge offers a unique blend of comfort, natural beauty, and cultural immersion. For those seeking to experience Bhutan’s hidden gems while indulging in luxury, COMO Uma Punakha provides the perfect balance.

We spent three nights COMO Uma Punakha, where we recharged after completing the intense Dunk Trek. When we arrived, we needed a calm place to rest and recharge. COMO Uma Punakha delivered with its tranquil surroundings and blissful spa. 

Location and Accessibility of COMO Uma Punakha

We flew through Bangkok to Paro, Bhutan, before eventually making our way to Punakha. Perched at an altitude of about 1,400 meters (4,600 feet), COMO Uma Punakha is situated in one of the lower valleys of Bhutan. The lower altitude makes it more accessible to guests who might be affected by altitude sickness at higher-altitude destinations like Paro or Thimphu. The hotel is a 3-hour scenic drive from the Paro International Airport, passing through the iconic Dochula Pass, which offers breathtaking views of the snow-capped Himalayan peaks.

The drive is rough for those like me who tend to get motion sick. The twisty mountain road gave way to pristine mountains covered by green trees, but the constant turning was too much for me. To tamp down the nausea, I laid down in the backseat and forced myself to sleep through most of the ride to and from Punakha. Gary, on the other hand, had no problems with the mountain roads. 

Punakha Valley’s peaceful location is ideal for those looking to unwind and explore some of the best things in Bhutan. The famous Punakha Dzong, one of Bhutan’s most stunning fortresses, is just a short drive away, as are numerous monasteries and villages that offer glimpses into traditional Bhutanese life. For visitors interested in seeing Punakha, COMO provides a convenient base for exploration.

When we reached COMO Uma Punakha, we were exhausted, dirty, and in need of a place to soothe our aching muscles. COMO Uma Punakha was the heaven I was craving after trekking for three nights in the rain. 

Accommodations with Panoramic Views

COMO Uma Punakha is a five-star boutique hotel that offers nine rooms and two villas. Each room has a simple design with Bhutanese craftsmanship, using natural materials such as wood and stone to blend harmoniously with the surrounding landscape. Large windows open to expansive views of the valley, allowing guests to wake up to the sight of terraced rice paddies and the tranquil Mo Chu River. Each morning, the cascading light brightens the room.

We stayed in a Valley View room that overlooked the raging river and the gleaming rice patty fields below. We took advantage of the terrace in our room, where we enjoyed the view and read in between sightseeing. At night, we closed the screen doors but left the balcony sliding doors open to allow the cool breeze from the river to drift into our room. With the doors open, we let the sounds of the rushing river lull us to sleep. 

In addition to the king-size bed, our room also had a small sitting area. Inside the bathroom was a separate tub and stall shower. To avoid the musty smell that was starting to creep in from our wet and dirty trekking clothes, we laid our clothes out on the bathtub and along the terrace. I forgot to put the do not disturb sign on our door, and the housekeeping staff must have been shocked when they entered our room for our nightly turndown service. We must have looked like the Beverly Hillbillies. Despite my embarrassment, no one said a word.

One of my favorite parts of the turndown service was the jars of mini cookies that arrived nightly. I found myself awake at three in the morning, craving the little cookies. Every night, I ate a couple before falling back asleep with a smile.

Dining: Farm-to-Table Delights

The culinary offerings at COMO Uma Punakha are numerous. The lodge’s restaurant features a farm-to-table approach, using organic ingredients sourced from local farmers. The dishes blend traditional Bhutanese cuisine with Western influences, offering a diverse menu that caters to all palates. Guests can enjoy Bhutanese staples such as Ema Datshi (chili and cheese), local vegetables, and Indian, Italian, and Bhutanese dishes.

For those with dietary preferences, the chefs are happy to customize meals, ensuring a wide variety of options for vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free guests.

Our meals were included in our ten-night package. I had the option of ordering a starter, main, a side dish, and dessert. I opted for pasta every night, and sometimes Gary and I would share a salad. After being on the trail and hiking all day, I needed carbs and lots of them. I tried the spaghetti marinara with fresh vegetables and the pesto pasta. Both were good, but I liked the pesto a little better. That’s because it had more cheese, which I can never get enough of. We elected to share a dessert every night. After all, we deserved it!

For breakfast, I usually opted for scrambled eggs, toast, and smoked salmon. But the breakfast menu was plentiful. For breakfast, I could order fresh juices, coffee, or tea, plus a breakfast dish and a starter like fruit. While I was always hungry at night, I opted for a smaller breakfast. 

Wellness and Relaxation: COMO Shambhala

COMO Shambhala Retreat at Uma Punakha is an integral part of the experience, offering signature treatments that draw on Bhutanese traditions and Asian healing philosophies. Guests can indulge in massages, facials, and body therapies designed to relax and rejuvenate, all while overlooking the calming river and mountains.

The day we arrived, we opted for the hot stone bath treatment and massage. The hot stone bath lay directly in front of a massive window that overlooked the bright rice fields and river below. The serene picture that lay before us was breathtaking.

As for the hot stone bath, I had heard the water was hot, but oh my god, hot doesn’t even begin to describe the water temperature. I love hot water. I find it relaxing, whether I am drinking it or am in it. But this was over the top. It took a few minutes to submerge myself because the water was scalding. I struggled to stay submerged and was often half out of the water because the water temperature was so intense. The cold towels, cold water, and ice provided helped alleviate some of the heat, but there was no getting around the steaming temperature of the bath water. The bath is also full of local leaves with natural healing properties to help aching muscles.

About halfway through our allotted time, a little door opened on the side and asked if we wanted more hot stones. In unison, Gary and I both said, “No.” Were they insane? We could barely handle the temperature, but apparently, other guests asked for more heat. After about 30 minutes, Gary looked like he was going to pass out and was lightheaded.

Hot stone baths are part of the Bhutanese culture. Our tour guides explained that when they do the bath (not at the hotel), they usually start with three rocks and then gradually add more rocks. Our bath started with seven rocks. While I was happy we partook in the experience, it was a little too intense for me. 

After the bath, we were led to a couples massage suite with wood paneling, two massage beds, and a sitting area with the same stunning view of the valley below. We each enjoyed a sixty-minute massage. My aching muscles were thrilled to indulge in a massage. 

Best Time to Visit Punakha

The best time to visit Punakha is from March to May and again from September to October when the weather is warm, and there is less chance of rain. However, the weather can be unpredictable. We experienced rain in late September and early October, which is unusual. 

Activities and Excursions Near COMO Uma Punakha

From spiritual experiences to adventurous treks, COMO Uma Punakha offers a variety of activities in Bhutan designed to immerse guests in the natural beauty and culture of Bhutan.

  • Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten (temple)
  • Punakha Dzong (fortress)
  • Trekking in the Himalayan mountains
  • River rafting (more like floating)
  • Hiking
  • Archery
  • Farmhouse lunches
  • Monastery visit
  • Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Lhakhang Nunnery
  • Chimi Lhakhang (fertility temple)

Our COMO guides, Shering and Yarab, did an excellent job of showing us some of the top attractions in Punakha. Their vast knowledge of the places we visited and the history of Buddhism is impressive.

Pro Tip:  From the United States, we brought English learning workbooks for young children. One morning, we brought them to a local monastery. As a thank you, we were given milk tea and cookies, which we enjoyed while overlooking the lush terraced hillside. Pens, pencils, and paper are also welcome. 

Proximity to Attractions and Local Culture

The lodge is ideally located near many of the valley’s main attractions, including the Punakha Dzong and the Chimi Lhakhang (Fertility Temple). Punakha itself is a treasure trove of historical and cultural significance, and guests staying at the COMO hotel can easily explore these sites with private, guided tours arranged by the hotel.

In addition to the cultural landmarks, Punakha Valley is renowned for its warm climate and lush landscapes, making it one of the most fertile regions in the country. Whether you’re strolling through the terraced rice fields or hiking to one of the many monasteries perched on the hills, the valley offers a serene escape from the busier cities of Bhutan.

Sustainability and Eco-Friendly Practices at COMO Uma Punakha

COMO Uma Punakha shares Bhutan’s commitment to sustainability. The lodge is designed to have a minimal environmental impact, with eco-friendly practices like sourcing local materials and reducing waste. The emphasis on organic produce in the restaurant and sustainable tourism practices ensures that the hotel aligns with Bhutan’s values of carbon-negative tourism. Guests can feel good knowing their stay supports both the local economy and the preservation of Bhutan’s natural beauty.

Tips for an Enjoyable Stay

  • Know Before You Go: Visiting Bhutan is a unique experience, and there are several things to know before you go about currency, culture, and dos and don’ts.
  • Book in advance: COMO Uma Punakha’s limited number of rooms means it can fill up quickly, especially during the peak tourist seasons (March-May and September-November).
  • Stay hydrated: The altitude, while lower than some other regions, can still affect visitors. Drink plenty of water and take it slow during your first day in Bhutan.
  • Explore off the beaten path: While the Punakha Dzong is a must-visit, ask the hotel’s guides to take you to lesser-known monasteries for a more intimate experience.
  • Bring a variety of clothing: Despite the warm climate, evenings can get cool. Pack light layers for comfort.
  • Plan for Wi-Fi limitations: The internet can be spotty in remote areas of Bhutan, including at the lodge. Embrace the digital detox and enjoy the surroundings.
  • Immerse yourself in local experiences:  Try the hot bath and a game of archery.

Final Thoughts on COMO Uma Punakha

For travelers seeking a unique blend of culture, nature, and luxury, COMO Uma Punakha is a low-key hidden gem in the Himalayas. Its serene location and simple yet luxurious accommodations make it a sought-after luxury hotel in Bhutan. Whether you’re looking to explore the rich cultural heritage of the Punakha Valley or relax in the tranquil surroundings, COMO Uma Punakha offers an unforgettable experience that embodies the best of Bhutan tourism.

In total, we spent ten nights in Bhutan, including three nights in Punakha, three nights trekking, and four nights in Paro. We had a chance to pack in several activities while in Punakha. If I were doing the trip again, I’d opt for two nights in Punakha instead of three. We had a chance to do all of the activities we wanted and had some downtime. However, if you are a slow-paced traveler, three nights would be best.    

On the way home, we stopped in Bangkok for three nights and stayed at the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River and loved it!

While in Bhutan, consider staying at COMO Uma Paro and visiting Bhutan’s capital, Thimphu. Are you ready to visit Bhutan and book your stay at COMO Uma Punakha, one of the best hotels in Bhutan? 

Comment below and let me know your thoughts about visiting Bhutan. 

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Michelle Steinhardt

Michelle Steinhardt is a luxury travel expert and the founder of The Trav Nav, an award-winning luxury travel blog for active travelers. She has written for Matador Network and MB News, and has been quoted in publications such as CNN Underscored, Yahoo!, USA Today, and GOBankingRates. The Trav Nav has consistently been recognized by Feedspot as one of the top 100 luxury travel blogs since 2021.
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Linda (LD Holland)
1 month ago

We have not yet visited Bhutan so have no idea about the different types of accommodations we might find. But a luxury spot like COMO Uma Punakha would be of interest to us. The tranquil settings would surely let us unwind. And those views are quite stunning! 

Katie
Katie
1 month ago

I was unfamiliar with COM Uma Punakha before reading your post. It looks like a fabulous and peaceful getaway. I am looking for unique places to hike and explore and this would be a great option. thanks for sharing!

Jolayne
1 month ago

Not sure I could have handled the hot stone heated water, but the massage sounds heavenly.

Anna
1 month ago

COMO Uma Punakha sounds like the perfect getaway—peaceful, scenic, and full of Bhutanese charm. Definitely adding this serene retreat to my travel list! Thanks for sharing!